Setting up shop in downtown Birmingham, far from the city’s dining scene, was risky, but the gamble paid off for owners Brian Somershield and Geoff Lockert. Their thick-crust, square slices are among the most popular in town. The star is the BLT, with ricotta, mozzarella, bacon, tomatoes and arugula. Fold it in half and eat it as the name suggests, like a sandwich. $2.50 per slice; 207A 20th St. North; trattoriacentrale.com