Like wine, beer is an ingredient that can add a lot of dynamic flavor to recipes. The sauce for these bratwursts is made with a light lager-style beer that lends the sauce a savory yet sweet and slightly bitter flavor. A darker beer such as stout will impart a richer, deeper flavor.
Put the potatoes in a pot and cover with water; season with salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until tender, about 20 minutes. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking water, then drain the potatoes and return to the pot. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1/4 cup heavy cream and 2 tablespoons of the reserved cooking water; season with salt. Mash until smooth. Keep warm.
Toast the caraway seeds in a small saucepan over medium heat, about 1 minute. Add the vinegar and sugar and cook until the sugar is dissolved, 1 to 2 minutes. Put the cabbage and red onion in a large bowl. Add the vinegar mixture, 1 tablespoon olive oil and the mustard; season with salt and pepper. Toss well.
Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Brown the bratwursts, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Add the beer and 1/2 cup of the potato cooking water; bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer until the bratwursts are cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes; remove to a plate. Increase the heat to medium-high and simmer until the liquid is reduced, 4 to 6 minutes. Whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons heavy cream.
Thin the mashed potatoes with more cooking water. Serve with the bratwursts, cabbage, cream sauce and mustard.
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Photograph by Andrew Purcell
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